Here is a detailed, step-by-step guide to diagnosing and fixing a Samsung washing machine that is not draining water. This issue is common and often fixable without calling a technician, but it requires patience and safety precautions.
**Safety First:** Before any inspection or repair, unplug the washing machine from the power outlet. Turn off the water supply valves to prevent accidental flooding. Have towels or a shallow tray ready, as water will spill when you open the filter or drain hose.
### Step 1: Understand the Problem
A “not draining” error typically appears with codes like **5E** (Samsung’s code for drainage error), **LE** (motor locked, often due to water load), or **UE** (imbalance). The machine fills, washes, or rinses, but then stops, leaving clothes soaking. The machine may also make a humming or clicking sound but fail to pump out water. Causes range from simple blockages to faulty hardware.
### Step 2: Perform a Quick Reset
Sometimes the control board glitches. Reset your Samsung washer: unplug it for 5 minutes, then press and hold the **Start/Pause** button for 5 seconds while still unplugged. Plug it back in, select a **Rinse & Spin** cycle, and see if it drains. If not, proceed.
### Step 3: Check for Obvious Blockages
Before opening any panels, inspect:
- **Drain hose kinks or clamps:** The large corrugated hose at the back of the machine might be bent, crushed against a wall, or twisted. Straighten it completely. Ensure the hose’s end sits in a standpipe no higher than 96 inches (8 feet) from the machine’s base—excessive height prevents pumping.
- **Frozen drain hose (cold climates):** If temperatures dropped below freezing, water inside the hose may be ice. Pour warm (not boiling) water down the standpipe or use a hair dryer on the hose externally.
### Step 4: Clean the Debris Filter (Most Common Fix)
Samsung washers have a drain pump filter that traps coins, lint, hairpins, and buttons. A clogged filter stops drainage completely. Locate it:
- **Front-load models:** A small, rectangular or circular hatch at the bottom left or right front corner.
- **Top-load models with a front panel:** Remove the lower front kickplate (usually 2-3 screws).
**How to clean:**
1. Place towels on the floor. Open the filter hatch.
2. You’ll see a dark twist-knob (the emergency drain hose) and a larger twist cap (the filter).
3. Pull out the small emergency drain hose, remove its plug, and let water drain into a shallow tray. This can take 5-10 minutes.
4. Once water stops, unscrew the large filter cap counterclockwise. Expect more water—have a vacuum handy if possible.
5. Remove debris carefully. Use an old toothbrush to clean the filter housing and the cap. Also inspect the pump impeller (the small fan-like part visible inside the housing). Spin it with your finger; it should rotate freely. If stuck, there’s an object wedged inside.
6. Reinstall the filter cap (hand-tight only) and replace the drain hose plug. Close the hatch.
After cleaning, run a **Spin Only** cycle. If it drains, you’ve solved it.
### Step 5: Test the Drain Pump
If the filter is clean but water remains, the pump motor may have failed. You’ll hear a loud humming or no sound at all during the drain cycle. To confirm:
- Access the pump: After unplugging, remove the rear or bottom panel (depending on model). The pump is a round, black or white plastic unit attached to the drain hose.
- Disconnect the wiring harness and measure resistance with a multimeter (set to ohms). A healthy pump reads **10–30 ohms**. Infinite resistance (OL) means a burnt coil—replace the pump. Zero ohms indicates a short.
- Also check for voltage (with caution): reassemble temporarily, set a drain cycle, and see if the pump receives ~120V AC (US) or ~230V AC (EU). If voltage is present but pump doesn’t run, replace the pump.
**Pump replacement:** Remove the pump (usually 1-2 screws), transfer the old hose clamps, and install the new pump. Ensure the filter housing is clean. This part costs $20–50 and takes 30 minutes.
### Step 6: Inspect the Drain Hose and Standpipe
Even after cleaning the filter, a blockage might be deeper:
1. Disconnect the drain hose from the back of the washer and from the standpipe.
2. Blow through the hose or run a garden hose through it. If water flows freely, the hose is clear.
3. Check the standpipe itself—pour a bucket of water directly into it. If it overflows or drains slowly, you have a household plumbing clog. Use a plumber’s snake or call a plumber.
4. Reattach the hose securely, making sure the end isn’t submerged in standing water (which causes siphoning issues).
### Step 7: Check the Lid Switch or Door Lock (For Top Loaders)
Some top-load Samsung washers will not drain if the lid is open or the lid switch is faulty. The machine thinks the lid is open for safety. Test by pressing the lid switch manually (a small plunger under the lid frame) while listening for a click. If no click, replace the switch.
### Step 8: Examine the Control Board (Last Resort)
If the pump runs, hoses are clear, and filter is clean, the main control board may not be sending the drain signal. Look for burned components, bulging capacitors, or burnt smell on the board. This is a complex repair; unless you’re experienced with electronics, call a professional. A new control board costs $150–300 and requires programming for your model.
### Step 9: Run a Diagnostic Cycle (Without Tools)
Many Samsung washers have a built-in test mode. For front-loaders: Turn the machine on, then press and hold **Spin** and **Temp** buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. The display will show “t1” or “CB.” Rotate the dial to cycle through tests; one will activate the drain pump. Listen for the pump running. If it runs but water doesn’t move, you have a blockage. If it’s silent, the pump or board is bad.
### When to Call a Professional
- You’ve cleaned the filter, tested the pump, and cleared hoses, but water still won’t drain.
- The pump runs but makes a loud grinding noise (bearing failure).
- You smell burning electronics or see smoke.
- The machine is still under warranty—contact Samsung or the retailer first.
### Prevention Tips
- Clean the debris filter every 2–3 months.
- Use a washing machine cleaner (or hot vinegar/baking soda cycle) monthly to dissolve soap scum.
- Empty pockets of coins, tissues, and bobby pins before washing.
- Avoid overloading; an overloaded machine can push fabric into the drain pump.
In most cases, cleaning the debris filter resolves the “water not draining” issue. If that fails, testing the pump and drain hose will pinpoint the problem. With basic tools and this guide, you can save a $150–300 service call. However, if you’re uncomfortable with electrical testing or disassembly, prioritize safety and hire a technician.